Wednesday’s WoW! – Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2008

Everyone is back to work, the Christmas tree has been stripped of its finery and is sitting lonely and discarded at the end of the driveway, the credit card bills are piling up on the counter…Even though the festivities are over and spending is a bit tight right now, you still want to drink quality wine that is on par with some of the treats you enjoyed over the holdiay.  Well, this week’s WoW, Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2008, may be your answer – it’s delicious, and it’s only $15.95 at the LCBO’s Vintages.

Tenuta di Capezzana

Documents dating from 804 AD indicate that wine and olive oil have been made on the Capezzana estate for 1200 years!  Not many wine estates can boast that.  The Contini Bonacossi family has owned the estate since the 1920s.  The vineyards cover 100 hectares in Carmignano (a distinct wine region within Tuscany), about 24 kilometres north west of Florence.

Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC

Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC is located inside the DOCG region of Carmignano, which is located in Tuscany, Italy.  The name is a reference to Barco Reale Medicio, a 4000 acre hunting reserve which was owned by the Medici Grand Dukes and is surrounded by a high wall that stretches for 50 km.  The red wines of Barco Reale are made using Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc, and Canaiolo. (Note:  Cabernet Sauvignon has been used in the wines of this area for a long time, long before they became popular in the relatively recent Super Tuscans.)

While very similar in style to the wines of Carmignano DOCG, the wines of Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC are not subject to the same aging requirements, so they are generally younger and fresher and meant for earlier drinking.

Tasting Note

Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2008 is made up of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo, and was aged in barrel for 6 months.  The wine has quite intense aromas of dried cherry, black licorice, plum, dark spice, and damp earth.  On the palate, ripe fruit is supported by a sturdy structure and a velvety texture, with flavours of suede, earth, cherry, and spice, a cedary, savoury note, and a long finish.  It’s drinking well now but could cellar another 3 to 5 years.  Enjoy with Spaghetti Bolognese, beef stew, or roast beef dinner.  If you live in Ontario, don’t delay in buying a couple bottles as it’s sure to sell out quickly.

From the Cellar – Vilafonte Series C 2004

I certainly enjoyed some very nice wines over the holidays, but the one that was the definite hit in my family was Vilafonté Series C 2004 from the Paarl-Simonsberg region of South Africa.  I purchased this wine in December 2009 on sale at the LCBO for about $35, a significant discount from its original price of $64.

The Vilafonte Story

Vilafonté is a joint venture between American and South African wine specialists committed to crafting quality wines specifically for the US market.  It aims to produce the first luxury wine brand from South Africa.  Acclaimed US winemaker Zelma Long is head winemaker; Michael Ratcliffe, a leader in the South African wine industry, is the General Manager; Phillip Freese is head grape-grower; and Bartholomew Broadbent is responsible for distribution to the US market.

Winemaking

There are 42 hectares of vineyards, all planted to Bordeaux varieties.  Planting is high density (about 5,208 vines/ha) and there is low production of grapes per vine.  Grapes are picked at around 24 Brix or higher.  Vilafonté Series C 2004 is a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec.  The wine was aged for 19 months in 100% French oak barrels, 71% of which were new.

Tasting Note

Vilafonté Series C 2004 is a deep garnet colour.  The extra years of aging has helped this wine develop and mature with complex and intense aromas of dark earth, leather, cassis, chocolate, and brown spice notes.  On the palate, this wine is powerful and full-bodied with ample supple tannins.  The whopping 15.1% alcohol is surprisingly balanced and not overly hot.  Dark fruit, earth and spice flavours gradually melt away on the long finish.  A big, brooding wine to be sure, but certainly delicious and drinking beautifully right now.

I’ve been searching for more recent vintages of this wine for some time now.  It seems that only the Vilafonte Series M (containing more Merlot) is available in Ontario right now.  Contact Hobbs & Co for availability and private orders.

Wine Tasting at Malivoire Winery – An Affair with Pinot Noir

I have had a passionate love affair with Pinot Noir for some time now – I’m frequently seduced by its alluring aromas and flavours and silky caress – so I was excited to learn about The Pinot Affair wine tasting taking place at a few wineries in Niagara on the weekend of October 15-16.  Unfortunately I was only able to get to about half of the wineries involved.  They were all fun, flirty affairs until…my heart was stolen…by Malivoire Winery.

Malivoire Wine Company began in 1995 when Martin Malivoire and his partner, Moira Saganski, purchased a plot of land on what is now the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula wine region in Ontario. That plot of land soon became the Moira Vineyard.  A year later, they purchased more land just to the west, which is now the site of the winery.

Malivoire currently owns two vineyards, Moira and Estate, and farms two other vineyards under lease, Epp and Eastman.  All vineyards are in the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation, with the exception of the Epp Vineyard which is on the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation.  Malivoire also makes wine from the Mottiar Family Vineyard which was purchased by Malivoire’s own winemaker, Shiraz Mottiar, in 2003.

Malivoire only grows grape varieties that are suitable for the sand, clay, and limestone soils and the  cool-climate conditions of the region.  Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Gamay, and Pinot Noir are their chosen grapes.  Malivoire does not use pumps, but uses gravity to move the pre-bottled liquid from one place to another, reducing agitation and oxidation, minimizing the need for filtration, and in the end, enhancing flavour.

The Wine Tasting Event

The wine tasting was led by Shiraz (yes, that’s his real name) Mottiar himself.  It was a real treat to be able to taste Pinot Noirs from the 2010 vintage that are still in barrel.  We started with 2 Pinots from the Estate vineyard; one was fermented in stainless steel and the other was barrel fermented.  The barrel was not toasted, so it’s just the fresh wood in contact with the wine.  The first wine was very fruit-forward with bright acidity.  Shiraz said that it will probably make up the foundation of the Alive label Pinot Noir.  The barrel fermented wine had the same red fruit, but there was a bit more spice and earthiness, and a rounder mouthfeel.  I felt this was a more complex wine.  Shiraz commented that it had great structure, but that it may need some support from other wines during the blending process.

Next we tasted two wines from the Mottiar vineyard, also from 2010.  As with the Estate Vineyard wines, one was stainless steel fermented and the other was barrel fermented.  Again the stainless steel fermented wine was a more fruit-forward wine, but there were also some distinct mineral and floral notes.  But it was the barrel fermented Mottiar vineyard Pinot Noir that really stole my heart.  It was intense and aromatic with darker fruit, more spice, and a floral perfume.  Supple, smooth and silky with a very long finish.

Shiraz then encouraged us to do a little blending of our own to see how two or three of these wines would work together.  I mixed the two Mottiar Vineyards wines together creating one delicious blend indeed!  I’m really looking forward to trying the finished wine in about a year; it’s sure to be a beauty.

We then tasted the 2009 Alive Pinot Noir, the 2009 Small Lot Pinot Noir, and the 2009 Mottiar Pinot Noir.  Tasting notes for all wines are below.

Wine Tasting Notes

Estate Vineyard 2010: Stainless steel fermented.  Still in tank.  A brilliant ruby colour with ripe red berry aromas; strawberry, raspberry, and cranberry.  Delicate but with bright acidity on the palate and a very fruity finish.

Estate Vineyard 2010: Barrel fermented.  Still in barrel.  The same red berry fruit as in the first wine, but more spicy, earthy notes and a touch of vanilla.  The tannins are more noticeable, but there’s a rounder mouthfeel and more complex flavours.  Good length.

Mottiar Vineyard 2010: Stainless steel fermented.  Still in tank.  A bright ruby colour with a purplish hue.  Mineral and floral notes combined with lots of cranberry, raspberry, and red currant aromas.  Subtle and delicate.  Very pretty.

Mottiar Vineyard 2010: Barrel fermented.  Still in barrel.  Intense and aromatic with spicy cranberry, red plum, dark raspberry, black cherry, and a floral note reminiscent of rose petals.  Fuller and rounder on the palate than the previous wines with a very long lingering finish.

Alive Pinot Noir 2009:  12% barrel fermented.  A bright ruby colour with sour cherry,  red currant, raspberry, mineral, and a touch of smoke.  Bright acidity with a good length.  Very approachable and ready to drink now. ($29.95)

Small Lot Pinot Noir 2009:  60% barrel fermented.  Darker, spicier fruit than the Alive version, with mineral, earth and violet aromas.  Ripe fruit and spice on the palate with a firm structure and a long length.  A good wine to leave in the cellar for 3 – 5 years.  It’s recommended that you decant for 1 hour if serving now.  ($34.95)

Mottiar Pinot Noir 2009:  50% barrel fermented.  Aromatic and elegant with aromas of plum, blackberry, earth, cinnamon spice, flower petals, and a minty note.  Silky tannins and a long length.  Cellar for 3 – 5 years.  It should age and evolve nicely.  Only 100 cases made so don’t delay in buying this wonderful wine.  ($39.95)